Another start at 4 am. It’s painful laying in bed, jet-lagged/half-asleep, staying as silent as possible (and knowing if you go to the bathroom -which you REALLY need to- the whole jig is up), only to end up listening to a crescendo of baby giggles end with the toddler speak: “Mama. I awake”. Oy.
Because of the super-early wake up, Excavator and I have to get out of the room so the littlest one can have a morning nap. Oh, and it’s so early that the awesome playroom is closed; time to improvise.
Once we’re outside, Elsa is ready to go explore uncharted territory. We followed a walking path that we couldn’t take yesterday with the stroller; it lead to a closed gate, at which point we doubled back. After exhausting the paths around the resort grounds, I decided we should forge ahead of the gate. Tractor correctly observed we had been that way already – “don’t go down path two times, Daddy” – but I convinced him to give it another go so we could explore further.
It lead to the walking path we partially took last night to the trying-to-be-quaint-but-also-fancy set of shops/restaurants, which was cool since we were able to vet the route for the stroller later (rather than walk in the service road). And find the correct way from the resort, after getting lost AF last night. Also, Miss Fritter had a blast looking out at the water over bridges.
After mouse woke from his morning nap, we ditched the “western” buffet at the sister resort and opted instead to walk down the stream-side path and eat at the same quaint-but-gentrified restaurant area. The bakery we had been eyeing since before we left the states turned out to be absolutely incredible. We ate a huge breakfast (I had the pleasure of eating two – thanks for the French toast Mac!), raided the bakery, and said goodbye to the Green Noodles restaurant/fancy soba place.
We met with our guide for the day at the resort lobby, and loaded the – van? mini-bus? – and were off to Kamikochi with a stop in Matsumoto.
The Matsumoto Castle is simultaneously imposing and captivating; we approach the front and make our way to the entrance gate. Thing One is totally disinterested until we get to the moat and see the carp – instant investment. Now he wants to explore all over.
It is the preserved original castle, thus retaining all the inner structure as it was built. Practically speaking, it means steep/treacherous inclining stairs, narrowing and increasing in steepness with each level. Ah, and also – low overhead beams though the stairs. “Fish” kept a tight grip on my neck and waist, and we were able to navigate back down safely – my advice is to make sure you don’t underestimate the challenge of coming back down, especially if you have little ones in-tow. But the payoff was worth it. At one point we were going to stop when Fish said “Not down, I want to stay in the castle”. So he and I forged on without Mommy and Thing Two.
After lunch and a stop at the grocery store, we were off for the remainder of our road trip.
The mountain passes are serious business. We drove on the real-life equivalent of Mount Akina. No wonder drift racing was born here.
During our vehicle transfer, we were given some printouts to prepare for our Ryokan stays. It seemed odd to necessitate homework en-route to a hot-spring inn, but wow did I not realize how to Onsen. We weren’t talking about western friendly hotels or ritzy resort areas anymore; we were deep in the mountains, where rural tradition and etiquette reigned.
After a crash course in “how-to-shoes” and what to say to properly receive/end a meal, we arrived.
I can only sing praises for Keiryu-so Shiorie. As our first ever ryokan and onsen experience, we had a lot to learn and managed to mortify the staff only a small-handful of times.
It was a small room that contained absolutely nothing child-safe, with the exception of the diaper genie in the washroom (which honestly felt a tad disapproving).
Back at home, we certainly do not go to extra efforts to hide or relocate fragile items or artwork, and it’s never been an issue. However, this was like being put into a porcelain room after giving the kids mallet gloves. Kyle and I immediately ran around the room, saving items at the last second and grabbing anything else along the way that could be victim of the two cyclones that had just been unleashed on this beautiful, serene room.
We skip dinner to give the kids a break and get to bed early (oh, and wire the room with the video monitor). We have important business- a dip in the private outdoor Onsen once the kids are asleep. Sitting in the 90+ degree F natural spring water while breathing in the cold, rainy air is nothing short of blissful.
Travels with Larson and Co 